Our journey from Taipei to Sun Moon Lake was surprisingly easy: We took the high-speed train to Taichung and then a direct bus, arriving at our hotel just two and a half hours later. And what a view awaited us: the mirror-like waters of the lake, surrounded by green hills and distant mountains, welcomed us in serene stillness.
The lake reveals new facets from every perspective – and it's not only the scenery that fascinates. Until the 1960s, it played a key role in Taiwan’s energy supply as part of an ambitious infrastructure project: A 2.5-gigawatt pumped storage power station operated here, supplying power to the entire island at times.
Today, Sun Moon Lake is a beloved recreational area. The nearly continuous trails around the lake are ideal for cyclists, hikers – and pilgrims. One of their key destinations is the Ci-En Pagoda, built by order of Chiang Kai-shek in memory of his mother and completed in February 1971. The pagoda sits on a hill at 954 meters above sea level, and with a height of 46 meters, its top reaches exactly 1000 meters. The view from there is breathtaking – offering a full panorama of the lake and surrounding mountain ranges.
Several other temples lie along the circular route around the lake, but one of the most magical experiences takes place in April and May during firefly season. On warm spring nights, thousands of glowing fireflies dance through the darkness in search of a mate – and we were lucky enough to find one of the best-known "firefly spots" just a short walk from our hotel.
A meeting of light, landscape and history – this is what our time at Sun Moon Lake truly felt like.
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